How to Build a Chicken Roost or Roosting Rod

Chickens instinctively spend the night off the ground, making a roost an essential feature for any chicken coop. The simplest kind is a horizontal rod or pole suspended above the ground or floor. Materials for roosting rods can range from wood dowels to tree branches, but they must be suitable for a chicken's feet to grasp comfortably, yet sturdy enough to support the weight of several birds. One of the easiest materials to use is standard 2-by-2 lumber, which is milled with slightly rounded edges. A roosting rod supported by notched supports, or cleats, makes it easy to remove for cleaning the coop or replacing the rod.

Things You'll Need

  • Tape measure
  • 2-by-4s
  • Circular saw
  • Wood chisel
  • 2-by-2s
  • 100-grit sandpaper
  • Torpedo level
  • Drill with countersink-piloting bit and screwdriver tip
  • Deck screws
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Instructions

  1. Plan the Roosting Rod Location

    • 1

      Determine the number of roosting rods you̵7;ll need based on the maximum number of chickens living in the coop. Provide at least 8 inches of roosting space per chicken.

    • 2

      Plan the height of each roosting rod. While some commercial freestanding roosts can be only about 6 inches tall, chickens prefer to be higher off the ground. You can place them as high as you like; just make sure the rods are at least 12 inches off the ground and that the birds have plenty of headroom while roosting.

    • 3

      Arrange the locations of multiple rods for adequate space, leaving 18 inches between side-by-side perches. You can also arrange rods diagonally (at an ascending angle), leaving at least 12 inches of horizontal and vertical space between neighboring rods. Do not position rods directly above one another, as the lower perches would be in the line of fire from droppings.

    • 4

      Mark the rod locations onto the coop̵7;s walls. Rods can extend between any two opposing walls or other supports, or can run diagonally between adjacent walls.

    Cut the Rods and Cleats

    • 5
      Measure 2-by-2s carefully for a good fit between supports.

      Cut 5-inch lengths of 2-by-4 for the ends of each rod, using a circular saw, miter saw, or handsaw. These are the cleats that will hold the ends of the rods.

    • 6

      Cut each rod to length from a 2-by-2 so it fits easily between the supporting walls of the coop at the marked locations. If the rods will sit diagonally, cut their ends at opposing 45-degree angles.

    • 7

      Sand all surfaces of each rod with 100-grit sandpaper to remove any sharpness and splinters.

    • 8

      Mark and cut a 1-1/2-inch-wide by 1-1/2-inch-deep notch into the top edge of each cleat, to accept the ends of the rods. Cut the notches by making multiple parallel cuts with a saw, then chiseling out the waste pieces and cleaning up the bottoms of the notches with a wood chisel. For diagonal rods, make the notches at a 45-degree angle across the top edges of the cleats.

    • 9

      Drill four pilot holes through each cleat, spacing a pair of holes evenly at either side of the notched center area. Use a drill and countersink-piloting bit to create a recess for screw heads.

    Install the Rods

    • 10

      Position a cleat on its mark on the supporting wall, with the notched edge pointing up. Use a torpedo level to make sure the top edge of the cleat is level.

    • 11

      Fasten the cleat to the coop wall with four deck screws. The screws' length should be 1-1/2 inches plus about 3/4 of the thickness of the coop wall (or support) material.

    • 12

      Position a second cleat on the opposing support wall. Set one of the rods into the notches of both cleats and make sure it is level, then fasten the second cleat as with the first. Repeat the process to install the remaining cleats and rods.