Fleas are wingless insects that feed on the blood of cats, dogs, humans and other animals, and cause itching and irritation from scratching and biting. They are possible vectors of disease such as murine typhus and should be dealt with swiftly at the first sign of outbreak or infestation.
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Description
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Adult fleas are roughly an eighth of an inch long, brownish-black, flattened-looking with six legs and have no wings. Flea larvae are about a quarter of an inch long, legless, and dirty white. After two days of feeding, the female begins to produce eggs on the host, eventually laying 27 eggs per day after about a week. Adults live an average of eight days on short-haired animals, but can survive longer on long-haired hosts.
Types
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While there is a dog-specific flea (Ctenocephalides canis), most flea outbreaks on dogs are caused by the cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis). Treatment does not vary according to flea type.
Diagnosis
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Topical inspection is the most common way to spot a flea infestation. An infected animal may scratch and bite excessively. Common sites are the lower legs of the animals. A bite mark typically consists of a small red spot surrounded by a red halo. There is typically no swelling. Some animals, especially those with flea bite allergies, lose hair in patches when bitten. Larvae are often found in infested pet bedding.
Treatments
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A wide variety of effective insecticides and insect growth regulators are commercially available as sprays, spot-ons, pills and food additives. More powerful, effective treatments can be prescribed by a veterinarian. Products and active chemicals include: Program (lufenuron); Sentinel (lufenuron); Precor (methoprene); vIGRen (methoprene); Baygon (propoxur); Advantage (imidacloprid); and Frontline (fipronil). Most chemicals have low toxicity in mammals and pose minimal risk to animals and their owners.
Botantical insecticides include pyrethrum, pyrethrins, limonene (Demize), linalool and other citrus oil extracts. Citrus sprays kill fleas on contact and evaporate quickly thereafter, living little residual protection. A thorough cleaning with readily available and affordable products is the easiest and cheapest way to get rid of fleas, although further action may be necessary in larger outbreaks. Special combs can be used to remove fleas manually, although they are thought to be only 60 percent effective at best. Fleas gathered in this manner can be dropped in soapy water and then discarded. Combing, in general, is a cheap, effective way to spot fleas early and help mitigate the cost of treatments.
Some claim garlic, Brewer's yeast, cedar bedding or other herbal treatments control fleas, although there is scant scientific evidence. While volatile oils in fresh cedar chips are toxic to fleas, the effects are short-lived. Brewer's yeast has failed to protect pets from fleas in multiple tests.
Prevention
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Change pet bedding regularly and vacuum it thoroughly. Vacuuming alone removes up to 30 percent of larvae and 60 percent of the eggs from the carpet as well as the larvae's food supply of dried blood. Treating the animal's living areas at the same time the animal is treated is vital to preventing re-infestation. Follow up cleaning seven to 10 days after the first treatment helps kill maturing pupae. Two or three follow-up sprays may be required. Outdoor animals are at a higher risk of coming into contact with fleas.
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