What is Small bunting delicacy?

The ortolan bunting is a small migratory songbird that once earned a place in French haute cuisine. The most famous dish featuring this bird is known as "les Ortolan," a dish so controversial it was banned in France in 1999 and in the European Union in 2007. Despite the bans, the tradition continues in some underground settings.

Here's an overview of the process:

- The ortolan buntings are caught during their autumn migration in southwestern France and Italy, usually using traps or nets.

- Once captured, the birds were traditionally placed headfirst into a small wooden cask, or 'étouffoir,' and drowned in Armagnac brandy. This method was believed to mellow the flesh.

- The birds are then plucked and roasted whole, usually on a small spit. They are eaten entirely, including the bones, and are typically accompanied by a napkin to cover the diner's face and conceal the act.

Eating the ortolan bunting involves consuming it almost entirely, bones included. The reason for this is that the small bones of the bird are said to be extremely fragile and dissolve easily, especially when cooked in Armagnac.

The consumption of ortolan buntings was associated with exclusivity, luxury, and a certain cultural elite in France. However, the dish drew criticism from animal welfare and conservation groups, leading to the bans in France and the European Union due to concerns about animal cruelty and the declining populations of these birds.

Since the ban, the practice has largely disappeared from mainstream restaurants and is only occasionally encountered in underground settings or illegal dining clubs.