Late Housebreaking in Puppies

Housebreaking guidelines are the same whether your dog is six weeks or six years old. The more you pay attention to the basics, the quicker your dog will be trained. The most common reason for unsuccessful or delayed housebreaking is the owner's inability to closely supervise his pet. The more your dog soils in the house, the more likely he is to continue soiling. In addition, scents and odors left in the house from previous "accidents" will encourage your puppy to eliminate inside.

  1. Development

    • Many dog breeders begin housebreaking puppies at the six- to eight-week time frame--the earlier the better to discourage unwanted behavior. However, because many puppies under 12 weeks have not developed full bladder or bowel control, the process requires taking your dog outside on a frequent basis. The rule of thumb for your dog "holding" it is one hour for each month of age. In other words, a three-month-old puppy can only "hold' it for three hours.

    Socialization

    • Older puppies yet to be housebroken need special consideration because by eight to 10 weeks of age they experience real fear. According to the Dumb Friends League, they can be "alarmed by normal objects and experiences and need positive training." Positive people experiences are a must in order for your older puppy to develop appropriate reactions and social skills. Puppy mill, rescue and shelter dogs may experience additional home adjustment issues, which makes patience in house training older puppies a priority.

    Routine

    • As with younger puppies, establishing a housebreaking routine is critical for older puppies. This should include taking your dog out every two to three hours, praising your dog when he "goes" outside, choosing a bathroom spot close to the door and using the same phrase each time (such as "go potty"). Feeding your dog on a set schedule, so you will know when he needs to eliminate, is also important.

    Supervision

    • All puppies do best when they have a predictable routine, which provides them an opportunity to know what to expect from you, as well as what is expected from them. Close supervision is part of this routine. Keep your puppy within eye sight at all times. If unable to do so, tether him in the same room with you with a six-foot leash or baby gate. Do not allow him to run through the house, and watch for signs that he has to "go."

    Confinement

    • Confine your puppy for short periods of time when you are not able to directly supervise him.

      When unable to closely watch your puppy, confine him to an area small enough that he will not want to eliminate in. Expect your puppy to have an "accident" if you don't let him out within a reasonable time period. Better yet, install a doggy door within a safely fenced area. This will free up you and your puppy and expedite the housebreaking period.

    Accidents

    • All dogs have "accidents," whether puppy or adult. Even when house trained, dogs get sick and may be unable to let you know in time to go outside, especially during the night. According to the Humane Society, "Interrupt your puppy when you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house." Make a startling noise, like a hand clap, but be sure not to scare him and then immediately take him outside.

    Clean Up

    • Clean any soiled areas immediately with enzymatic cleaners, since dogs are inclined to eliminate where they smell urine or feces. Find soiled areas using your nose and your eyes. Do not use steam cleaners to clean urine because, according to the Dumb Friends League, the "heat will permanently set the odor and the stain by bonding the protein into any man-made fibers." Decrease night "accidents" by picking up your dog's water dish several hours before you go to bed.