Things You'll Need
- Second dog
- Assistant
- Clicker
- Treats
- Plastic bag or treat pouch
Instructions
Enlist the help of a friend to handle a second dog on leash. The second dog should possess a calm disposition but not be submissive or fearful of other dogs. The proper dog should be able to make soft, warm eye contact with a handler and not look away emitting a low growl or fall to the ground and roll (all indications of a fearful temperament).
Start with your dog on leash, clicker in hand, treats in a plastic baggie in your pocket or in a "bait bag" ---a quick-access pouch--attached to your waistband.
Keep both dogs on leash and work in an open area. Allow the dogs to see each other but prevent them from meeting--leave approximately 10 feet between dogs. Each time your dog looks at the other dog or shows calm interest click and reward with a treat. Be consistent with clicking and rewarding. The rule of thumb is click as the dog gives you the behavior you want and immediately follow up with a reward.
Decrease the distance between dogs. Click and reward all calm interest in the other dog: gazing in its direction, sniffing the air or offering a play bow. When a dog stretches its front paws to the ground, lowers its head and chest and slightly rears up its behind, it means it is demonstrating "I want to be friends." If your dog stiffens or fixates on the other dog with a hard stare that is a sign of aggression. When this happens, increase the distance between dogs and gradually decrease the distance again only when your dog can maintain its calm as you progress. End the session if your dog gets excited and unfocused as you decrease distance. Try again the next day rather than force the training.
Watch your dog closely as it approaches the other dog. Click and reward every instance of normal greeting behavior: sniffing each other, play bows, soft eye contact or yawning. Keep the leash loose. Don't jerk your dog away or increase tension while your dog is behaving well in the presence of the other dog.
Monitor your dog's body language. If it lowers its head or shows signs it is about to mount by putting its head over the dog's shoulder blades directly behind the neck, call its name calmly. The instant your dog makes eye contact with you or turns in your direction, click and reward with a treat. The trick is to interrupt your dog's impulse to mount before it shows signs that it wants to mount the other dog. These signals are subtle. With practice, detecting them will become second nature.
Repeat this exercise for several days. Once your dog is responding the instant you call it away from the other dog, with a head turn, eye contact or coming to you, add a phrase to mean, "Don't mount." Many trainers advise phrases like "Leave it" or "Off."
Let the dogs greet on leash. Click and reward friendly behavior. Practice saying your dog's name with your chosen phrase before your dog mounts, gradually adding distance between you and your dog. Practice this exercise often. Ending a mounting problem will take repeated attempts before success. With lots of training, you will eventually grab your dog's attention with the phrase at various distances. Eventually, you will be able to call off your dog even when it is not attached to the leash.