Instructions
Remove the female rabbit from her cage and carry her to the male rabbit. Never, ever do this the other way around. Females are very territorial and will become aggressive if another rabbit enters her cage.
Observe the male and female together for 10-15 minutes. A doe may act like she's not interested in breeding or play "hard to get," but if she's ready to breed, she'll settle down in a short while. Watch for the doe to lift her hind end slightly when the male attempts to mount her. If she hisses or attempts to bite the male, remove her immediately and try again in a few days.
Encourage larger litters by either introducing the female several times at six-hour intervals or by leaving her with the male for a 24-hour period. Introducing the doe more than once or leaving her with the male can cause her system to flush extra eggs over the course of her time. Leaving her longer than 24-hours is not recommended, because there is a chance that she will flush extra eggs at a later time that will also be fertilized. When she delivers the first batch of bunnies, the second batch--that are still developing--will be delivered as well.
Remind yourself that the bunnies are intended for the table. Do not treat them as pets. Handle the bunnies regularly so they are calm when they are around humans, but resist the urge to get attached. You can number, but do not name, bunnies intended for meat.
How to Breed Rabbits for Food
Rabbits are popular meat animals in many parts of the world because they are prolific and always eager to breed. Because doe rabbits are induced ovulators--meaning that they wait to ovulate until they've been exposed to a male--you don't have to wait for you doe to go in to heat. As long as she's willing to breed with the male you've chosen for her, it couldn't be easier to breed rabbits for food.