Things You'll Need
- 7 8-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch pieces of lumber
- Chop saw
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- 3 4-foot by 8-foot plywood sheets
- Nails
- Hammer
- Circular saw
- Electric drill
- 1/4-inch drill bit
- Jigsaw
- 2 hinges
- Sliding bolt lock
- 2 10-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch pieces of lumber
- 5-foot by 8-foot corrugated tin roofing material
- Galvanized screws and washers
- Screwdriver bit
Instructions
Cut two 8-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch pieces of lumber in half with the chop saw.
Lay two 4-foot lengths of 2-inch by 4-inch wood on the ground on edge parallel to each other, with one sheet of 4-foot by 8-foot plywood on top. The two 2-inch by 4-inch lengths should be under the 4-foot long edges of the plywood, and flush to the sides.
Nail through the plywood to secure each of the 2-inch by 4-inch pieces in place.
Repeat the steps for the other sections of 4-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch pieces and another sheet of plywood.
Measure 7 feet, 9 inches on four 8-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch pieces and cut them at that length with the chop saw.
Nail two of these cut 2-inch by 4-inch lengths across the top and bottom of a plywood sheet between the 4-foot lengths on either side. These new lengths of 2-inch by 4-inch pieces should be flush to the top and bottom and nailed flat rather than on edge. Repeat for the other sheet of plywood. Nail through the 4-foot sections of 2-inch by 4-inch pieces into these new lengths of 2-inch by 4-inch pieces to further secure them.
Measure another 4-foot by 8-foot plywood sheet in half and cut with the circular saw so that you have two sections of 4-foot by 4-foot plywood.
Lay one of the plywood sections with 2-inch by 4-inch pieces nailed to it on its back so that the 2-inch by 4-inch pieces are on top.
Nail one 4-foot by 4-foot section of plywood to the outside of one 4-foot length of 2-inch by 4-inch section so that the plywood is sticking up into the air. Nail the other piece of 4-foot by 4-foot plywood in the same orientation on the other 4-foot length of 2-inch by 4-inch section.
Stand the structure up on edge. These are three sides of your duck hutch.
Stand the last wall of the duck hutch up as well and nail it in place with the same orientation of the 8-foot long section of plywood.
Lay a piece of 8-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch lumber flat on top of one 8-foot long side of the duck hutch. Make it flush to the tops of the 4-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch pieces, and nail the 8-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch piece down into the tops of the two 4-foot by 2-inch by 4inch pieces. Also nail down into the 8-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch piece on the edge along the top of the plywood.
Drill a hole in one of the bottom corners of the plywood, underneath the 2-inch by 4-inch piece that you just put in place. Measure two feet up and across and drill two more holes. Drill one more hole at the final corner so that you have four holes, evenly spaced.
Draw straight lines between the holes with a pencil and your tape measure. Cut along the lines with the jigsaw.
Attach hinges to the outside of the duck hutch, along one side of the hole that you have just made. Replace the piece you cut out and when you're sure it's oriented correctly, secure it to the hinges.
Install a sliding bolt lock on the other side of the door so that you can lock the duck hutch at night.
Measure halfway along the three 10-foot by 2-inch by 4-inch pieces and cut them in half with the chop saw.
Lay five of the 5-foot pieces of 2-inch by 4-inch lumber flat on the top of the hutch. They should be laid across the shorter length of the duck hutch and should overhang the hutch by several inches on either end. These will be the rafters. Two should go on the ends of the hutch and the remaining three should be spaced two feet apart. Nail them in place.
Secure the corrugated tin roof in place with galvanized screws and washers for the screws.