How to Build a Trimming Stand for Goat Feet

Goats need to have their hooves trimmed on a regular basis. Normally, they wear their hoofs down climbing on rocks. If the hooves didn't quickly grow back they would soon wear their feet down to the quick and injure the tender inner flesh. On most farms goats don't wear their hooves down enough. Owners must monitor and trim their goat's hooves or walking will become painful, their stance will become bowed, and hoof infections may occur. It is much easier to trim the goat's hooves if its head is secured away from you and the animal is elevated slightly on a goat stand. Building a goat stand is a two-person job, but well worth the time and effort. Having one will save you time and your back.

Things You'll Need

  • 4 8-foot 1-by-4 boards
  • 1 10-foot 1-by-8 board
  • 1 6-foot 2-by-2 board
  • 1 6-foot 2-by-4 board
  • Circular saw
  • Tape Measure
  • Drill
  • Phillips head screwdriver bit
  • 2-inch deck screws
  • 1.5-inch screws
  • Hammer
  • 1-inch finishing nails
  • Jig saw
  • 2.5-inch slotted round screw with washer and nut
  • 4-inch corner brackets
  • 4-inch hook and eye assembly
  • Sandpaper
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Instructions

  1. Cutting the Pieces

    • 1

      Cut three 3-foot sections from the 10-foot 1-by-8 board with the circular saw; these will become the top of the platform.

    • 2

      Cut from the 1-by-4 boards four 21.5-inch pieces, four 3-foot sections which will be the sides of the platform, two 20.5-inch pieces which will be the ends of the platform, two 18.5-inch pieces, and two 4.5-inch pieces which will be the legs.

    • 3

      Cut three 20.5-inch pieces from the 2-by-2 board which will be the cross-braces of the platform. Cut four 14-inch pieces from the 2-by-4 board.

    Platform

    • 4

      Place two 14-inch 2-by-4 boards parallel on the ground and place a 20.5-inch 1-by-4 board across one end. Align the top and outside edges of the boards and secure with four 2-inch screws using the drill. Repeat producing an identical piece.

    • 5

      Stand the two pieces up opposite each other with the legs on the inside. Attach a 3-foot 2-by-4 across the two end pieces to complete the exterior of the platform.

    • 6

      Insert two 20.5-inch 2-by-2 cross-pieces between the long sides of the platform, spaced evenly from each other and either end for support. Screw in place.

    • 7

      Screw the 3-foot sections of 1-by-8 board in place across the top of the platform using the 1.5-inch screws.

    Head Gate

    • 8

      Cut a 3-inch-by-5-inch corner diagonally off a 18.5-inch 1-by-4 board. Measure and mark 5 inches down the board and 3 inches along the top edge. Draw a line between these two marks to create the cut line.

    • 9

      Place this corner-cut board flat on the floor with the uncut edge to the left. Place the other 18.5-inch 1-by-4 board parallel to the right of it, spaced so that a 21.5-inch board can be laid across the top matching the corners. Lay a second 21.5-inch board across the 18.5-inch boards four inches from the bottom. Nail these boards in place temporarily with 1-inch finishing nails.

    • 10

      Flip the head gate over and place the last two 21.5 inch boards in the same positions sandwiching the 18.5 inch pieces between them and screw the head gate together using 2-inch screws. Reverse the head gate again and insert additional 2-inch screws.

    • 11

      Cut a long, race-track-shaped, half-oval from the top half of each of the 3-foot 1-by-4 boards. The top of the oval should start 4 inches from the end and stop 13.5-inches later. When you lay the two boards side by side with the cut out portions together the oval should be straight and parallel on the long sides with all the curve near the top and the bottom. The finished race-track oval cut-out, when both boards are laid together, should be 3.5-4 inches wide.

    • 12

      Trim off the inside, bottom corner of the left-hand board of the head hole. Measure up 4.5 inches and mark the board and then measure over 3 inches on the end and mark. Draw a line between the two marks and cut along the line.

    • 13

      Lay the previously assembled portion of the head-gate on the ground with the feet near you and the board with the cut corner on the left. Mark the center points of the two 21.5-inch boards facing you. Slide the two head-hole boards into the sandwich from the top so that all four feet are aligned and the head-hole sticks up from the top.

    • 14

      Space the two head-hole boards 1 inch apart and 1/2-inch from the center mark. Secure the right hand board with 2-inch screws.

    • 15

      Drill a hole in the lower 21.5-inch board with the 11/32-inch drill bit centered over the unsecured left hand head-hole board. Drill through all three layers of board. Enlarge the hole with the 13/16-inch bit to a depth of 1/4 on both sides of the headboard. Insert the nut and 2.5-inch slotted round screw into the hole, slip on a washer, the nut and tighten.

    Final Assembly

    • 16

      Attach the head-gate to the platform. Have an assistant hold the head-gate up against the platform. The platform should fit below the cross-bars of the head-gate.

    • 17

      Screw the exterior legs to the platform with the 2-inch screws. Screw the fixed board of the interior head-hole board to the platform.

    • 18

      Attach two corner braces for added strength between the platform and the head-gate.

    • 19

      Attach the 4-inch hook and eye assembly on the top of the two head-holder boards so you can secure it shut with the goat's neck in between the boards.

    • 20

      Sand any rough edges with the sandpaper.