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Planning
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Although you can incorporate as many customizations as you wish, your goat stanchion should always include three basic parts: the elevated floor, the headlock and the feeding trough. The elevated floor minimizes your chances of straining your back when working with your goats, a key feature in equipment you'll most likely be using daily. Gail Damerow, author of "Your Goats," suggests that the elevated floor be no more than 12 inches from the ground in order to minimize your goat's chances of tripping and falling, especially during pregnancy. You could design a goat stanchion that uses a chain to secure your goats, but a headlock system (constructed of boards that lock into place on both sides of your goat's neck) limits movements and contains your goat much more effectively. The feeding trough provides your goat with a treat (and distraction) while you milk or trim hooves, making the experience more enjoyable and relaxed for both of you.
Before you begin working on your goat stanchion, consider what you will use your stanchion for, since this will affect your design. Most goat owners use their goat stanchion for milking, hoof trimming and medicating. If you're going to use the stanchion for daily milking, consider incorporating a shelf above the headlock to hold your milking supplies where your goats can't reach. You can also include a built-in milking stool, which keeps you from having to sit on the edge of the stanchion each time you milk. If you plan on using the goat stanchion to contain your bucks, ensure that the headlock is tall enough to accommodate your largest buck.
Think about your barn layout and your available space when planning your design, as well. A stand-alone goat stanchion is stronger but it will take up space that you may not have available all the time. If you don't have dedicated space for your stanchion, you can use hinges to attach your stanchion to the wall; this adaptation allows you to collapse your stanchion when it's not in use, providing floor space for other purposes when you need it.
Materials and Construction
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Since you'll most likely be using it every day, your goat stanchion should be sturdy but low-cost. Wood is typically your best option because of its affordability and durability. If you're going to construct the stanchion from wood, good options include 2-by-4-inch boards and ¾-inch plywood. Use the 2-by-4-inch boards for the headlock and framework, keeping the plywood for the floor and supports of your stanchion. Using screws instead of nails will drastically lengthen the usable life of your stanchion since they'll strengthen your frame, but be sure to pre-drill the holes to minimize the chances of having your wood split. Although you can construct a feed bowl out of wood, using a simple stainless steel bowl is a more sanitary option since you can remove it and clean it out when it gets soiled. Use plywood for your base and cut a hole in it that is large enough to hold the stainless steel bowl but small enough that it won't fall through.
Once you build your goat stanchion and try it out, don't be afraid to make additional adaptations. If your DIY goat stanchion doesn't make caring for your goats easier, then it is not doing its job.
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DIY Goat Stanchion
Even if you have just one goat, sooner or later the time will come when using a goat stanchion (also called a milk stand) will make your job as a goat owner much easier. Between being able to use your stanchion for routine jobs--such as trimming hooves or milking--and more specialized tasks, such as artificial insemination, constructing a DIY goat stanchion is well worth the time and effort you put into it.