The secret of building sound structures on wood skids lies in adequate cross-bracing. Without cross-bracing, the stresses of being pulled will quickly loosen fastenings in the building's corners and destroy its structural integrity.
Things You'll Need
- Saw
- 2- by 4-inch lumber
- Metal plates
- Nails
- Screws
- Drill
- 1/4-inch rebar
- 1/2-inch PVC pipe
- Chicken wire
- Zip ties or baling wire
- Hog panel
- Tarp
- 1/4-inch nylon rope
- Eye bolts
- 1/2-inch nylon rope
- 6-inch round poles
- 2- by 6-inch lumber
- 4- by 4-inch lumber
- Metal roofing
- Metal siding
- Anchor bolts
Instructions
Chicken Tractor/Hoop House
Make a rectangular bottom frame of 2- by 4-inch lumber. The long sides will be the skids. Attach the short sides to the skids with metal plates and screws, leaving about an inch of ground clearance.
Drill 3-inch deep vertical 3/16-inch holes into the center of the 2-inch wide top of the skids every 2 feet down their length. Drive a 12-inch long, 1/4-inch diameter rebar spike into each hole, being careful not to split the wood
Thread 1/2-inch PVC pipe onto a rebar spike, then bend it over to thread the other end onto the corresponding rebar spike on the other edge, making an arch. Repeat for the remaining holes.
Cover the arches with chicken wire. Fasten the chicken wire to the PVC pipe with zip ties or baling wire.
Cut two end pieces out of a hog panel. If small predators are a concern, cover one of the end pieces with chicken wire. The other end will be covered by a tarp, so chicken wire is unnecessary. Wire the end with the chicken wire onto one end of the main frame, around a PVC arch. Don't use too much wire or twist it too tightly; this is the end you will open to access the hoop house. Wire or zip tie the other end securely to the arch at the end of the frame.
Cover half of the hoop house with a tarp and secure it by running 1/4-inch nylon rope through the grommets and looping it around the 2-by-4 frame in a zigzag pattern.
Screw eye bolts into the front (the end without the tarp) of the 2-by-4 skids. Tie an 8-foot length of 1/2-inch nylon rope between the two eye bolts. One person can pull the hoop house over reasonably level terrain using the rope.
Three-sided Shelter
Measure and cut wooden skids to the desired lengths. For small buildings, 2- by 6-inch lumber will suffice. For larger buildings, 6-inch round poles will be sturdier and allow the building to be pulled more easily.
Bolt 2- by 6-inch cross pieces on either end of the skids. Bolt 4- by 4-inch posts to the inside of the frame formed by the skids and crosspieces and temporarily brace them at 90 degree angles to keep them square while you work on the walls and roof. The 4-by-4's on one skid should be 2 feet taller than those on the other skid to support the simple, slanted roof.
Nail 2- by 4-inch lumber horizontally between the 4-by-4's every 2 feet of height, with 2- by 6-inch lumber at the top to support the rafters. Leave the wall with the taller 4-by-4's open, except for the 2-by-6's at the top for the rafters. This will be where animals and people enter and exit, stepping over the skid.
Attach 2- by 6-inch rafters every 2 feet with metal plates and nails. Nail 2- by 4-inch purlins across the rafters to support the roof panels. Screw 2- by 4-inch braces at 45 degree angles onto the 4-by-4 posts and the 2-by-6 rafter support on the open side to reinforce it. Remove the temporary braces on the 4-by-4 posts.
Nail metal roofing panels to the purlins. Nail metal siding to the three enclosed walls. Drill holes through the ends of both skids and install anchor shackles for pulling the building from place to place.