Instructions on Building a Chicken Coop

Building a chicken coop can be complicated or simple, depending on the size of your flock and whether you want a permanent or portable enclosure. The main thing is to provide shelter, nesting boxes, roosts and protection from predators. Those goals can be accomplished with any number of designs and materials.
  1. Portable or Permanent?

    • Chicken coops can be well-designed permanent structures on farms in rural areas, but portable coops have many benefits as well.

      Portable coops can be moved around a yard or garden area, which leaves behind waste and provides the flock with fresh grass, making disease problems less likely. The downside is that you must move the coop at least twice a week to provide chickens with fresh grazing, and portable coops can be more difficult to secure from predators. Portable coops also may be exempt from local zoning or permitting ordinances.

      Permanent coops need to cleaned out every few weeks or months (depending on the size of your flock) to prevent disease and pests that can be caused by the build-up of manure. Permanent coops don't require as much maintenance on a weekly basis as portable coops, and can be built in larger dimensions to accommodate larger flocks. Some areas may require permits before building permanent coops, and such structures may be prohibited by local zoning laws.

    Weather Proofing

    • The most important thing when building your coop is to provide protection from the elements, particularly rain and wet ground. The floor should be elevated and the roof should be watertight. You can use wood for the floor; some pour concrete; and others just build on a high spot and use gravel or other well-draining material to cover the floor. In the summer, you'll want screened in windows to allow air ventilation and prevent overheating. In the winter, you should have a way to block off the windows so the chickens won't be chilled (windows are ideal, but plastic sheeting will work). Different breeds have different tolerance levels for heat and cold, so study up on your breed's climate preferences and plan accordingly.

    Predator Protection

    • A chicken coop should have sturdy walls that can resist break-ins by predators such as weasels, foxes, raccoons, dogs and cats. A strong wooden frame covered with sturdy chicken wire is often sufficient, but solid walls can keep chickens safe and provide protection from winter cold. All windows, doors, and access panels (such as those behind nesting boxes) should have sturdy wooden doors or wire screens that can be securely latched.

      When building your chicken coop, remember many predators can dig under walls and fencing. All it takes is one stray dog and 30 minutes of digging to lose an entire flock of chickens. Bury wire at least six inches and then reinforce the bottom of the walls with cement blocks to discourage digging. For portable coops, be sure the design includes security measures to deter predators, such as ringing the portable coop with several strands of electrified wire (solar-powered fence energizers negate the need to plug in the fence).

    Roosts

    • Chickens need enough space to roost at night̵2;they do not like to sleep on the ground the way some game fowl do. Your roost bars should be at least 2 feet off the ground, usually with a lower bar that the chickens can use to climb up to a higher bar. Most chickens prefer to roost about 5 or 6 feet off the ground if your coop is tall enough to allow that. Allow at least one foot of roost bar per bird so each chicken will have enough room.

    Nest Boxes

    • If you are raising chickens for eggs, you'll need to provide sturdy, functional nest boxes for your hens to prevent them from laying eggs on the ground where eggs can get soiled and broken. A nest box should be closed in on all sides except the front, which should be partially close to prevent the eggs from rolling out. Allow a square foot of space for the average hen and provide one nest box for every three or four hens. Hang the nesting boxes on a secure wall of the coop, at least 2 feet from the ground. Some may install a hatch behind the nesting boxes so they can access the boxes from outside the coop to collect eggs each day.

      Although nesting boxes can be purchased, they are easy to build from plywood or simple lumber and at much less expense. If you purchase used nesting boxes, always be sure to thoroughly clean and disinfect the boxes with a strong bleach solution to prevent the spread of disease.

    Build to Last

    • Whatever approach you use for building a chicken coop, keep in mind that your flock will need daily care and the coop must be built to withstand regular access. Use quality building materials for doors, windows and access panels so that they will open and close easily every day. Invest in quality latches to secure doors and windows from predators. A little patience and care when building a chicken coop can provide you with a structure that will provide years or even decades of good service.