Things You'll Need
- Railroad ties or 4-by-4 inch by 8-foot treated post (2 posts per 12-foot section)
- 2-by-10 inch by 12-foot treated boards, (4 boards per 12-foot section)
- Quickset concrete 160-pounds (2 bags) per 12-foot section
- 16D 3.5-inch ring nails (32 per 12-foot section)
- Electric fence insulators 2-per section
- Electric fence wire 12-feet per section
- Posthole digger
- Shovel
- Level
- Hammer
Instructions
Dig post holes that are 3-feet deep and 12-feet apart. The holes should be about 3 inches wider than the post on each side. The center of the postholes should be 12-feet apart to prevent gaps between your 12-foot boards that span between the two posts.
Set your post or railroad ties into the hole. Hold the level vertically on the post to stand it straight up.
Fill around the post with one 80-pound bag of quickset concrete. Keep the post level while tapping the dry concrete down around the post. Use the handle of the shovel turned upside down. There is no need to pour water around the posthole unless you live in an area with little rain.
Nail four treated 12-foot boards evenly spaced, connecting every two posts together. Use four 16D 3.5-inch ring nails in each end of each 12-foot board. That means eight nails in each board, four at each end. If your livestock are not miniature, but full sized, considering placing the 12-foot boards on the inside of the post. While this may look a little strange, it will prevent loosening the nails when a 2,000-lb. animal leans on the fence.
Attach an electric fence insulator to the inside of each post, using a 3.5-inch ring nail. The height of the insulator should fall just below the buttocks of your livestock.
Run a continuous line of electric fence wire around the inside of your wooden livestock fence. This will help protect your wooden fence from excessive damage caused from rubbing and scratching.