Things You'll Need
- Wood boards
- Wood posts
- Hammer
- Nails
- Post driver
Instructions
Building 3-board Fencing
Plan your fence carefully. Use a string to lay out your fence line, which will help you get it as straight as possible, and measure and mark every eight feet where your posts are going to be. If using gates for farm equipment to drive through, mark spaces 14 feet wide. Gates for people and horses only have to be four feet wide.
Choose the most durable wood available in your area that you can afford for your posts so that they will last as long as possible. The wood should at least be pressure treated.
Select posts that are long enough to provide at least five feet above the ground (six feet for stallions) and enough feet below the ground to go through the frost line. Your posts should be four to six inches in diameter. Posts that hold gates should have a larger diameter.
Have the posts driven by a fencing contractor, or you can rent a post driver. Driven posts are stronger than posts in holes that are dug and then have to be back-filled. Cementing posts in isn't recommended for horse fencing because replacing posts will be more difficult. Posts should be driven below the frost line of your area, with gate posts a foot deeper than the rest.
Nail 1 x 6-inch boards to the inside of fence post. Space the three boards so that your fence is at least 4 feet, 6 inches tall (5 feet, 6 inches for stallions). Boards eight feet long are easiest to replace.
Install tubular steel gates, which is your cheapest and easiest option for gates because they're lightweight and durable. Providing a block for the gate to rest on or a gate wheel can prevent gate sagging.
Wait a few months before painting or staining your fencing to allow the wood to weather.
Add an electrical wire or tape to the inside or top of the fencing to keep horses from chewing or running into the fence. Any electrical fencing needs a ground system and to be charged to work properly.