Hot Wire Fencing Tips

Hot wire used to be avoided because horses have difficulty seeing it and could be seriously injured if caught up in the wire strands. Now, however, hot wire is used in conjunction with other fencing options, or as coated wire. A lot of people like to use hot wire because it is inexpensive and horses respect the fence; however, those old concerns are still very viable.

  1. Charger and Insulated Cable

    • Your fence's charger should be rated in joules, not miles, and should be the most powerful you can afford (one joule for five acres is the minimum requirement). A more powerful charger does not mean your horse will get a more painful jolt. A charger can either plug into an outlet at your barn or be solar powered, but a solar-powered charger is not reliable and is more prone to failing than an outlet-powered one. Connect the charger to all strands of the fenceline with an insulated cable designed for electric fencing by a connector clamp (rather than just wrapping it around the fence).

    Insulators and Grounding Systems

    • With all types of electric fence, it is important to have a grounding system (metal rods sunk into the ground) and insulators, which connect the wire to the posts but avoid touching the post so that wires are not shorted out. The grounding system is attached to the fence with cables designed for the purpose of being part of a grounding system. Check the grounding system and insulators as often as you can (every day is recommended, but you should try for at least once a week) to make certain everything is attached and in good repair. If these pieces are not in place, your fencing is not going to work properly.

    Posts and Fence Strands

    • Posts in corners and next to gates need to be braced to be as strong as possible. If you are using T-posts rather than wooden posts, cap the T-posts with plastic sleeves to prevent your horse from injuring himself on the post (or from rubbing out his tail). Wooden posts are best, though, as they are easiest for a horse to see and won't short out your fence if an insulator comes loose and the wire touches the post. Uncoated wire is acceptable if you are protecting a more expensive fence, such as a vinyl or wooden rail fence, but if you are only using electric fencing, choose a coated wire to protect your horse. Check your fence, daily if possible, with a voltmeter to be sure your fence stays between 4,000 and 5,000 volts. Keep vegtation away from the fence to prevent voltage leaks.