Things You'll Need
- Tape measure
- Stakes
- Twine
- Shovel or backhoe
- Post hole digger or auger
- 4-by-4 posts
- Concrete
- Wheelbarrow
- 2-by-6 beams
- Step ladder
- Plumb line
- Saw
- Drill
- Hammer and nail gun
- Screws and screw driver
- 2-by-4 rafters
- 4-inch or larger diameter poles
- Galvanized bolts, screws and nails and roofing nails
- Metal or fiberglass roofing material
- Doors
- Hinges
- Bolts
Instructions
Draw a plan of the barn and determine the dimensions. A good sized stall is around 9 feet by 10 feet. Make certain the barn will not be located in a low lying area where rain water will be a problem, and that it will be away from your property boundaries. Zoning laws may require you to stay a certain distance away from your dwelling and neighbors' dwellings. Do not build the barn anywhere close to your septic system or well.
Obtain a building permit. Contact your local county or city building and zoning department to find out the requirements and costs involved. A permit application usually has to be accompanied by a list of materials, building plans and plot plan showing the location of the barn. These can be hand-drawn. If you are lucky enough to live on a big farm you may not need a permit.
Prepare the pad. Use shovels or a back hoe to dig out all vegetation and make the pad level. Measure the dimensions and mark them with stakes and twine. To ensure that the corners are square, mark a point 3 feet from a corner along the twine. Mark a point 4 feet from the same corner along the other length of twine. Adjust the building lines so that the measurement taken diagonally across from the two marks is exactly 5 feet. This will ensure that you have a 90-degree angle.
Dig holes for the posts at each corner and in the center between the two corner posts on the long side (9 feet from each corner if you are making 9-by-10 stalls). Make the holes at least 18 inches deep with a post hole digger or auger. Install the posts. Make certain they are not leaning and brace them with rocks or bricks in the holes, or by hammering scrap wood lightly into them to make "legs," which you can remove once they are concreted in.
Mix the concrete. Pour a bag of ready mix concrete into a wheelbarrow and add water a little at a time until it is just thin enough to pour. Shovel the concrete into all the holes and make certain it is packed in tightly. Allow it to dry for at least 48 hours or more if you have heavy rain.
Measure the height of the three posts along the front of the barn. Make certain they are level. Adjust their height with a saw, if necessary. Measure the three posts at the rear of the barn and saw them off so they are at least 18 inches shorter than the front posts, and are all level with one another. This will allow the roof to slope for rain or snow runoff.
Attach 2-by-6 beams. Drill holes through the posts and front, side and rear beams and attach them with galvanized bolts. You may need to notch the top of the posts to enable a more secure joint. Use a hammer and cold chisel for this. Hammer or screw on 2-by-4 rafters across the beams to support the roof. In areas where it snows they should be no more than 18 inches apart.
Bolt horizontal poles across the sides and rear of the barn from post to post. Set the poles at a height of about 3 feet 6 inches above the ground. Bolt two poles horizontally from the center rear post to the center front post to divide the two stalls. Notch the ends to make it easier to bolt them together.
Hammer the sheets of roofing material onto the roof beams and rafters using galvanized roofing nails and a nail gun. Attach the same material to the sides and rear of the barn to keep the wind and rain out.
Attach gates or doors to the front of each stall. Use strong hinges and a secure bolting mechanism. In cold places you may want to add a top door to close in winter. This may not be necessary in a warm climate.