Things You'll Need
- Leather oil
- Leather conditioner
- Sponges
- Paintbrush
- Saddle cover
Instructions
Place your new western saddle on your horse without a saddle pad. Check that it doesn't pinch the withers and that the tree is wide enough for the horse's back. Before you break in a saddle, you should always make sure it fits properly, or you won't be able to return it.
Oil the entire saddle using a soft, absorbent sponge. You can buy these in a pack of 10 or 12 for less than a dollar, and they are excellent to keep on hand. Any leather oil will suffice for a western saddle, and you should apply it liberally to all leather portions of the tack. One treatment per day for a week will give you a head start in your effort to break in the saddle.
Apply additional leather oil to the hard-to-reach areas of your new western saddle with a paintbrush. The small bristles and long wand will allow you to reach under the latigo holder, front jockey, back jockey, seat jockey and hobble strap. You can also use it to "paint" inside the billet holes and around all dee-rings.
Ride in the saddle for several days with a thick Navajo pad or something similar. This will give a wide berth between the stiff saddle and your horse's back, and will keep the saddle from pinching.
Switch to a thin, lightweight pad after a few days. Horse sweat will actually help to break in a new Western saddle, and by now the leather should be flexible enough to be comfortable for the horse.
Sprinkle baby powder along the bottom of the saddle before you put it on the horse. This will help to reduce friction caused by stiff, inflexible leather, and will silence the traditional squeak you often hear when riding in a new Western saddle.