Things You'll Need
- Horse
- Tack
- Places that are 'different' or 'emotionally challenging' to the horse
Instructions
How to despook a frightened horse
Be aware of what the horse can see and what it can't. Horse vision is geared towards seeing nearly competely around its head, focusing on things moving that are far away. Their near vision is not so good. They are also normally used to 'natural' objects, and not bright, shiny, noisy 'industrial' things that have right angles to them. They also are afraid of 'the sky falling down' (e.g., snow falling down from heavily snow-covered trees). Animals in the woods are a primary source of potential terror. Also be aware of 'horse language' of the body and the mouth. They move their ears towards the object they are looking at and listening to. Ears back equals fear or attack mode. 'Snorting' (air pushed out of mouth though a 'loose lip') is a sign that they are relaxed and eager to do 'stuff'. Whinneying means 'hey, comrades back in the pasture...are you still there?'
Step one...when on your horse or otherwise around it, leave your fear back at the house, but bring your caution and open eyes with you. Horses sense fear, and if you are afraid of them, they will be afraid of the 'gooblins and demons' in the woods, or not listen to you. When and as possible, identify the source fear. If riding the horse, approach the object and let horse look at it and get used to it. If at all possible, do not get off the horse. Do this ONLY if the horse looks like it is bucking or rearing up.
Continue the drill with the objects and locations that induce fear every day for at least five days. Work towards approaching them at a walk, then a trot, then a lope until the horse is okay. Keep in mind also that horses like routine and 'games' in safe places. If horse is insecure in a particular location, work the horse in 'drills' at that location such as circles, s-patterns, and transitions between walk, trot and lope (canter). Make horse listen to your leg for turning rather than bit for holding him/her back. Do this till horse 'snorts' and for a few drills beyond it. Reward horse with treats immediately when it listens to you and is 'zenned in' to the ride. Sometimes taking another horse out with you helps, but you ultimately need to go out with your horse alone, for this conditioning and beyond.
Keep in mind that some breeds are more scared than others. Thoroughbreds are often more scared than quarterhorses. Arabs can be flighty but if you 'think' with and like them, you can outsmart them. Keep in mind that reluctance to do something can also be due to
'I don't want to do this now' attitude by the horse rather than fear. Let yourself think like the horse.