How to Make Acrylic Pipes

Although there are many products that you can purchase for an aquarium, many people enjoy making custom aquariums and parts. Acrylic is a clear plastic that is safe and suitable for aquariums. It has the added benefits of being lighter to glass and resistant to salt in a saltwater aquarium. It is also possible to melt and shape, enabling you to turn a sheet of acrylic into a cylindrical pipe for your aquarium.

Things You'll Need

  • Measuring tape
  • Metal pipe
  • Acrylic sheet
  • Scriber, acrylic scoring knife, utility knife
  • Ruler
  • Goggles
  • Saw
  • File
  • Sandpaper
  • Sanding block
  • Gloves
  • Heat gun
  • Cement
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure the diameter of the metal pipe. This pipe will be the form for your acrylic pipe, so it must be slightly smaller than the size of your planned acrylic pipe. Ensure that the metal pipe is smooth and doesn't have caps at the ends as you must have a smooth surface to enable you to remove the acrylic pipe later.

    • 2

      Cut the acrylic sheet to your pipe dimensions, using a scriber, acrylic scoring knife or a utility knife if the acrylic is thinner than 1/4 inch. Run the scriber along the edge of a ruler to keep the cut straight. Score the plastic several times. Break the acrylic along the line. Alternatively, use a power saw with fine teeth if the acrylic is thicker than 1/4 inch. Clamp the acrylic sheet in place while you work.

    • 3

      File the rough edges with a smooth-cut file. Sand the edges with sandpaper affixed to a sanding block.

    • 4

      Line up the sheet on the pipe so that the edges are perpendicular to the pipe. Put on protective gloves and turn on the heat gun. Heat the acrylic slowly and evenly, turning the metal pipe a little at a time to roll the acrylic sheet around it. Allow the plastic to cool before removing the pipe.

    • 5

      Create a waterproof seal by cementing the edges of the pipe together. Capillary cement, which flows into a horizontal joint, is desirable but is also the least-forgiving method. The cuts and formation must be perfect for this cement to work. Viscous cement will fill small errors and gaps in the acrylic and is much easier to use (see References).