How to Make a Rubbermaid Sump

Sumps are external water storage devices connected to an aquarium's water system. They increase the total water volume of the aquarium system and help stabilize factors such as pH level and temperature. They can also provide a place for heaters and filtration devices so they don't add clutter to the display aquarium. Using plastic buckets, such as those from Rubbermaid, is a good way to save time and effort building the sump by hand. Rubbermaid containers are usually strong enough to hold the water without bending and are safe for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

Things You'll Need

  • Rubbermaid container
  • PVC pipe
  • PVC primer
  • PVC glue
  • Acrylic sheet
  • Aquarium-safe silicone
  • Argonite sand or bioballs
  • Water pump
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure the area where you will build the sump. Common locations include behind the aquarium in a separate room - typically for very large aquariums - or underneath the display aquarium in the aquarium stand. After measuring, subtract about 2 inches from the width. This will provide a buffer in case the plastic bends outward when filled with water.

    • 2

      Purchase the Rubbermaid container. When it comes to sumps, bigger is better. Keep in mind, however, that water weights about 10 pounds per gallon. If you are building this sump on an upstairs floor, make sure it is not so heavy that it will damage the floor, or break through it. For example, a 50-gallon sump will weigh about 500 lbs.

    • 3

      Plan the plumbing so that water flows down to one side of the container and is pumped back up into the aquarium from the other side. This way the water flows from one side to the other, which enables you to add filtration devices.

    • 4

      Dry fit the PVC pipes together so that water flows from the aquarium, usually through a bulkhead, into the sump, then from the water pump back into the aquarium. Once all the pipes are cut to size, prime the pipes with the purple primer and glue them together. The primer and glue are safe for saltwater and freshwater aquariums when fully cured.

    • 5

      Add the acrylic sheets as baffles and seal them to the sides of the container with aquarium-safe silicone. Baffles divide the sump into sections. Most commonly you will need three zones in the sump. The first zone is where the water enters the sump from the aquarium. The second zone is where you will add filtration devices and the third zone is where you will place the water pump (return pump).

    • 6

      Add the filtration devices to the center zone of the sump. For saltwater aquariums a deep sand bed consisting of 4 to 5 inches of argonite sand is usually preferred. However, you can also fill the area with rock harvested from the oceans and shipped wet. If you have a light over the sump, you can also add macro algae that will help take up nitrates and phosphates. In freshwater aquariums bioballs are usually called for. These are plastic or ceramic balls that provide a habitat for beneficial bacteria. If the sump is lit, you can also add plants that will help take up nitrates.

    • 7

      Test the sump for leaks by slowly filling it with water and watching it carefully.

    • 8

      When the sump is full, turn on the return pump to start the system. Make sure everything runs correctly without overflowing the sump or the aquarium.

    • 9

      While the system is running, shut off all power to the aquarium and the sump. This simulates a power outage and will let you know if the system will remain stable during this time. Look for leaks and make sure the aquarium doesn't drain into the sump.

    • 10

      Turn on all the power at once. This simulates the power coming back on after a power outage and you want the system to start back up with no problems or assistance from you.