Things You'll Need
- 4 1/2-inch-thick "Cell-Cast" acrylic sheets, cut to size by supplier
- 2 1/2-inch-thick "Cell-Cast" acrylic sheets, cut to size by supplier
- 4 corner clamps
- Weld-on No. 4 solvent cement
- Syringe
- Disposable gloves
- Silicone sealant
Instructions
Design your aquarium to fit the location and size desired. Account for the thickness of the acrylic in your calculations. The four sides must sit on the bottom. The front and back should run the length of the aquarium while the sides will be shorter than the width of the aquarium by two times the width of the acrylic. As an example: 3 foot long by 18 inches wide by 2 foot high aquarium will have a 3-foot-by-18-inch bottom piece, two 3-foot-by-2-foot front and back pieces, and two 17-inch-by-2-foot side pieces.
Determine the proper acrylic sheet width; tanks that are taller require thicker acrylic sheets but the price increases with the thickness. Use 1/4 inch thick acrylic sheets for aquariums up to 13 inches, 3/8 inch thick acrylic sheets for aquariums up to 19 inches, and 1/2 inch thick acrylic sheets for aquariums up to 24 inches.
Have the acrylic pieces cut at the local suppliers to match your design.
Assemble the aquarium on a flat surface low enough that you can easily reach inside the aquarium to apply the acrylic solvent. Clamp the four corners of the aquarium together using the corner clamps. Place soft rags or towels under the clamps to prevent damage to the acrylic.
Don the disposable gloves. Fill the syringe with the Weld-on No. 4 solvent cement.
Apply the Weld-on No. 4 solvent cement around the joints between the sides and the bottom pieces. Inject the solvent into the joint, wetting the full width. If a section does not wet completely across, apply more solvent from the outside at that site. The solvent melts the acrylic fusing the seam together. Because the solvent melts the acrylic, don't drip it on your viewing surfaces as it will permanently mar your aquarium.
After the weld dries in four hours, turn the tank on its back and weld the back joints. If you are creating an in-tank overflow, attach it at this point.
Wait another four hours and place the tank on its front and weld the front joints. If you are welding on top pieces, like a cross-piece support, turn the tank upside down and elevate it, so you can work from underneath it, after the other welds have fully dried. Trying to weld from the top down risks solvent drips down the viewing surface.