Things You'll Need
- 1 piece of 12-by-24-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard
- Framing square
- Circular saw
- 2 pieces of 12-by-29-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard
- Variable speed drill
- 1/16-inch drill bit
- 3/8-inch countersink bit
- Wood glue
- 2 pieces of 4-by-29-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard
- Philips head screw tip
- 1 1/4-inch drywall screws
- 1 piece of 10 1/2-by-12-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard
- 1 piece of 1-by-4-by-10 1/2-inch lumber
- 1 piece of 13-by-12-by-1/4-inch plywood
- 1-inch tacks
- Hammer
Instructions
Put the 12-by-24-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard on a worktable. This is the top of the aquarium stand. It will accommodate a hexagonal aquarium that is 24 inches wide and 12 inches deep. Measure from one corner down one long edge of the material and make a mark at 6 and 6 3/4 inches. From the same corner, make a mark at 6 inches on the end of the material. Repeat this from each corner.
Draw a line connecting the 6-inch mark on the long edges with the mark on the ends. Draw lines across the material from the marks on the long edges. The space between these two lines indicates the placement of the sides for the stand. Cut the lines that run from the 6-inch mark on the edge to the mark on the ends of the medium density fiberboard with a circular saw.
Place the 12-by-29-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard on a worktable; these are the sides of the stand. Make a mark at 5 5/8 and 6 3/8 inches on the 12-inch ends. Set the framing square on the marks and draw lines down the length of the material.
Drill five pilot holes between the lines with a 1/16-inch drill bit. Drill one 2 inches from the 12-inch edges and space the others out evenly between the two. Drill countersink holes on top of the pilot holes about 3/8 inch deep. Turn the sides over so the countersink holes are facing down.
Measure from one of the 12-inch ends and make marks at 8 3/4 and 9 1/2 inches. Set the framing square on the marks and draw lines across the material. Drill one pilot hole 2 inches from the long edges and one midway between the two. Drill countersink holes on top of the pilot holes about 3/8 inch deep. The space between these lines indicates the placement of the 10 1/2-by-12-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard.
Apply glue to one long edge of the 4-by-29-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard; these are the outer supports for the top of the stand. Secure it between the lines with the drywall screws. Next, drill three pilot holes followed by countersink holes 3/8 inch from the 10 1/2-inch edge of the 10 1/2-by-12-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard; this is the shelf of the stand. Run a bead of glue on one long edge of the 1-by-4-by-10 1/2-inch lumber and secure it to the shelves with the drywall screws.
Secure the 10 1/2-by-12-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard to the 12-by-29-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard between the lines drawn with the drywall screws. Drill pilot holes through the 12-by-29-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard and into the 1-by-4-by-10 1/2-inch lumber followed by countersink holes. Secure it with the drywall screws.
Drill pilot holes followed by countersink holes between the lines on the 12-by-24-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard hex-shaped top. Drill three pilot holes between the lines with a 1/16-inch drill bit. Drill one 2 inches from the long edges and one midway between the edges. Drill countersink holes on top of the pilot holes about 3/8 inch deep.
Set the 12-by-24-by-3/4-inch medium density fiberboard hex-shaped top on top of the sides and secure it with the drywall screws. Lay the aquarium stand on its front so the 1-by-4-by-10 1/2-inch lumber is on top. Secure the 13-by-12-by-1/4-inch plywood to the stand with the 1-inch tacks, aligning it with the top of the stand.