Things You'll Need
- Nontempered glass (cut to size and thickness)
- Sandpaper
- Silicone sealant
- Caulk gun
- Masking tape
- Heavy square object
Instructions
Planning
Evaluate and measure the area wjere you wish to put the tank before purchasing any materials. Glass aquariums are much heavier than their plastic counterparts, even before the water is added. For example: an average 4-foot-long tank, 1 foot wide and 2 feet deep, would weigh roughly 500 lbs. when filled.
Develop your tank design based on your estimates and measurements. If you've decided to make a 3-foot tank, 1 foot wide and 2 feet deep, you'll need to purchase materials that will complement this size.
Purchase your glass at a local home improvement or hardware store or online from a dealer that specializes in aquarium glass. Consult a representative before placing your order, as they may be able to recommend a proper glass thickness for your volume. Make sure to have your order pre-cut to size. This may cost a bit more, but it will be worth the time and money it would take to do it right yourself.
Pre-Assembly
Spread out your materials on a large table, indicating which sides of your aquarium are which with a felt tip marker or piece of masking tape.
Sand the edges of the glass gently and evenly. This will prevent cuts and be more conducive to attaching the pieces together. Wipe all of these sanded edges with alcohol to make sure they are clean.
Rip some strips of masking tape off, about 4 per side, and place them half on the bottom pane and half on each side pane, sticky side up, holding them loosely together.
Assembly
Put an even layer of silicone sealant on the back edge of the bottom pane as it lays flat on your work area. Pull the back pane up to a 90-degree angle to the bottom and hold it firmly in place for several minutes. If needed, you can prop a heavy, square object against it to hold it in place.
Squeeze more lines of silicone on the right side of the bottom panel, the inside right edge of the bottom panel and on the inside of the edge of the back panel. Firmly affix the right side of the tank. Repeat this method until you have an open cube with the two sides firmly sandwiched between the front and back.
Add additional sealant to the inside of the tank. Trace every new line and corner with your caulk gun, creating a thin inner barrier of sealant to prevent leakage.
Check all of your corners and make sure they are sharp and square, then wrap your new cube with a few tight layers of masking tape.
Let your sealant cure for at least one week before removing the tape. You can now sand off any excess sealant that is on the inside or outside and begin filling your tank.