How to Set Up Reef Aquariums

Reef aquariums are beautiful, but they are the most challenging tank for aquarists. Reef tanks differ from freshwater or even other saltwater setups, in that you must monitor more than water pH and temperature. Successful reef aquariums also require attention to salinity, calcium levels and alkalinity. In addition, corals are living animals that can be difficult to feed. Certain fish are incompatible, certain corals are incompatible, and some fish will eat some corals. Thus, the reef aquarist must research carefully at every step.

Things You'll Need

  • Aquarium
  • Chiller or heater (depending on the temperatures where you live)
  • Filter (canister, hang-on-back or drip filter)
  • Reef lighting (halide combined with actinics)
  • Saltwater
  • Live sand
  • Egg crate, plastic
  • Base rock
  • Live rock
  • Protein skimmer (optional but recommended)
  • UV sterilizer (optional)
  • PVC pipe (optional)
  • Aquarium-safe epoxy (optional)
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Instructions

    • 1

      Set your tank on an aquarium stand or a sturdy, level surface. Locate the tank out of direct sunlight, away from drafts, in an area free of loud noise, with a power outlet nearby.

    • 2

      Follow manufacturer directions to set up your chiller or heater, filtration devices and reef lighting so that they are ready to be turned on.

    • 3

      Fill the tank about halfway or less with saltwater, depending on how much live rock and live sand you will be using. You can choose to fill your tank with natural ocean water if that is available to you, but you run the risk of introducing parasites into your tank.

      A safer alternative is to mix your own saltwater by purchasing ocean salt sold at a pet store. Follow directions and mix salt with distilled water or water treated by reverse osmosis. Depending on the kinds of fish and corals you wish to keep, you need to maintain a specific gravity between 1.024 and 1.027, which you can measure with a refractrometer.

    • 4

      Add a few inches of live sand. Live sand provides beneficial bacteria that act as natural filters, turning ammonia and nitrites into nitrates, which are removed from the water during water changes.

    • 5

      Set a layer of plastic egg crate just above the substrate where you plan to build your rock wall. The egg crate raises your rock wall out of the sand, allowing water to circulate underneath.

    • 6

      Build the base of your rock wall using non-live "base" rock. Base rock is usually made of limestone or aragonite. These rocks contain no bacterial organisms and will not be harmed by heavy contact with sand or by being far away from the reef lighting.

      Choose flat, wide rocks to use as base rock. Begin toward the back of the tank, but not up against the glass. You can drill holes in the base rocks and stick PVC pipes through the holes to secure rocks together.

    • 7

      Add live rock by placing large pieces on the bottom, medium pieces in the middle, and small pieces on top. Leave plenty of spaces, nooks and crannies between rocks so as not to block water flow and for hiding places for fish. You can secure live rock by applying aquarium-safe epoxy.

    • 8

      Finish filling your tank with saltwater.

    • 9

      Turn on your filter, reef lighting and chiller or heater. Do not turn on the UV sterilizer or protein skimmer, if using.

    • 10

      Run the tank for one to two weeks before adding any animals or turning on protein skimmer or UV sterilizer. During this time, establish your desired water temperature, depending on what you will be keeping in the aquarium. Establish a pH of 8.0 to 8.3, using chemical additives if necessary. You can purchase tests that measure pH at any pet store.

    • 11

      Turn on your UV sterilizer and protein skimmer.

    • 12

      Add a handful of snails or crabs to your aquarium. Never add more than a few animals to a tank at once or you risk overloading your newly formed nitrifying bacteria.

    • 13

      Add two fish in another week. Then you may add new fish, corals or other life forms weekly, but be careful not to overload your tank. Rule of thumb is to provide at least 5 gallons of water for every 1 inch of animal in your tank.