Steps to a Clean Aquarium

Removing Algae and Cleaning Substrate

• For many new fish hobbyists, the first indicator of an unclean tank is the dreaded "algae bloom." In marine tanks, this bloom can be of the red, brown or green variety. A few green algae indicate that a tank is healthy, but too many algae are harmful to the aquarium's inhabitants. Red or brown algae can be a sign of poor water quality, and an overwhelming number of green algae can mean that your lights are too strong for the tank, or that you need to cut down on the number of hours that you keep the aquarium lit.

  Whatever your genus, the only way to remove algae from the inside of your tank is to put on protective gloves and scrub the walls using an algae pad--or several. If you have a large tank or more stubborn algae, an algae scraper comes in handy. An algae pad resembles the rectangular pad that you use to clean tough grease spots on your pots and pads, except that the algae pad is thinner and less coarse so as to avoid scratching the aquarium's panels. After you've scrubbed the algae off the inside of your tank, another problem arises: you have algae particles in your substrate (gravel).

  Actually, you probably have more than algae debris in your substrate; uneaten food, waste from your fish, and dead particles from corals and live rock sink to the bottom, collecting in the rocks or gravel and on inorganic tank decor. Detritus presents in the form of small particulates, usually dark in color, that are easily disturbed from the bottom of the tank if you wave your fingers around the bottom strata of water. If you're using larger rock as your substrate, the accumulation of detritus beneath the surface will be evident when you look in from the outside of the aquarium.

  If you have a reef tank with sensitive specimens, such as live coral or anemones, the best way to clean detritus from the tank is the painstaking method of using a turkey baster to carefully siphon out debris from the bottom strata of water closest to the substrate, as well as the substrate itself. If you have a large fish-only tank (50 gallons or more), an electric gravel vacuum comes in handy and makes short work of what can be a long, arduous task. You won't be able to remove every single bit of detritus from your substrate; however, there should be no obvious particles on the surface of gravel, live rock or tank ornaments or between larger pieces of rock.

Changing the Water

• Just because your aquarium looks clean doesn't mean it is clean. As any fish hobbyist can attest, the clearest water can be ridden with high levels of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, all of which are extremely dangerous to your aquarium's delicate inhabitants. Testing water daily can give an indication of a critical imbalance in your tank. Water testing kits, such as those made by Kent or Red Sea, are usually sold at your local aquarium supply shop, but you can also order them online from etailers such as Marine Depot. These kits typically include thin strips that change color when exposed to your tank's water and measure the amount of dangerous nutrients in the tank. Saltwater hobbyists always keep an eye out for high levels of ammonia, which are a sure indicator of an unclean tank.

  Don't wait until ammonia levels register dangerously high before you conduct an "emergency water" change. Water changes are necessary for every aquarium to keep water clean. Some saltwater hobbyists advocate changing 50 percent of the aquarium's water once a month, while others swear that smaller weekly water changes of about 5 to 10 percent of the volume pose less of a shock to delicate marine life. Yet another method recommended by saltwater hobbyists is replacing 10 percent of the tank's volume every two weeks. Your own experience is the only way to determine what method works for your tank. If you have a heavily populated aquarium, your tank might require more frequent water changes.

  Be prepared for water changes by keeping several gallons of reverse osmosis water on hand, prepared with your preferred salt mix. Reverse osmosis water is usually sold at health food stores, but aquarium supply stores also keep it on hand for customers, too. Using a clean, plastic gallon-sized pitcher, carefully remove the "dirty" water from your tank. A clear pitcher works best, as to avoid accidentally removing one of your tank's inhabitants along with the water. If you remove 10 gallons of the old saltwater, it stands to reason that 10 gallons of new saltwater replace it. But because saltwater evaporates, you may find it necessary to add more new water to maintain appropriate water levels.

  Make sure to measure salt mix carefully and precisely. Many hobbyists purchase a large plastic garbage pail in which to prepare their new water and "cure" it overnight to make sure the salt mix has thoroughly dissolved. After you conduct a water change, use your test kit to check for appropriate salinity levels. If salinity levels are too high, fresh reverse osmosis water can be introduced a cup at a time by pouring it through an external filter or very slowly into the side of the tank. But if you prepare your water properly and measure salinity levels before the new water goes into the tank, this step should never be necessary.

Don't Forget the Equipment

• Unarguably, the most grueling part of cleaning an aquarium is tackling submersible and hang-on equipment. If you have a small aquarium (50 gallons or less), you'll have some sort of power filter that aerates the tank and removes larger particles of detritus; medium-sized to large aquariums often include a protein skimmer, which removes even small particles of debris. Large tanks (100 gallons or more) often incorporate the use of a chiller, which keeps the tank's water from getting too hot and/or wave-makers, which simulate the tides of an ocean. If you test your water frequently only to find it rife with undesirable nutrients, it might be time to assess the efficacy of your tank's filtration system. Most hobbyists find that in tanks of 50 gallons or more, an additional filtration device or a protein skimmer is necessary to keep their water in tip-tip form.

  Any aquarium equipment can accumulate algae, a film of detritus, or if the equipment is the "hang on" variety, salt. All of these devices must come out or off for thorough cleaning. Here's where you use your tools. Bristle brushes remove algae and debris from submersible filter canisters, as well as from hard-to-reach places in other devices, such as on propellers and inside tubing. External equipment should not be submerged in water, but scrubbed with an algae pad and wiped down with a wet cloth to remove grime and salt build-up. When you clean your equipment, never use detergent: just hot fresh water, cleaning tools and elbow grease. To avoid contaminating equipment with soap residue from the kitchen sink, many hobbyists keep several buckets on hand with which to clean their tank equipment.

  Just like you change the filter in your air conditioner, the filtration media in your filtering devices needs to be changed, too. Some filters rely on pads or bags that capture particulates, while some use active carbon pellets or other forms of media. Additional media probably was included when you purchased your filtration system, but it helps to have replacements on hand when it's time to clean your tank. These can be purchased at your aquarium supply store or through an online etailer, such as Marine Depot, which carries an abundance of different filter media.

  Don't forget your light fixtures. Salt can accumulate on the hood of your tank, and even on lights themselves. Make sure to unplug your light fixture first, then gently remove caked-up salt using a damp towel. Be very gentle when it comes to removing and cleaning lights, and make sure that all contacts are completely dry before you reinsert your lights back into the hood.

  If you have questions about tank cleaning or maintenance, it's best to go directly to whoever sold you your supplies. While ordering aquarium equipment solely online might be cheaper and more expedient, establishing a good rapport with your resident a-"fish"-ionados behooves you. The staff at your local aquarium supply store can be helpful whenever you need advice on how to clean and maintain your aquarium.