Things You'll Need
- Three Buckets
- Hydrometer And Testing Jar
- Dechlorinated water
- Thermometers
- Plants
- Mildewcide Or Bleach
- Heater
- Distilled Water
- Decorations
- Tank
Instructions
Check the tank for leaks.
Clean the tank with a solution of 1 tsp. pure bleach for every 5 gallons of water. Scrub the tank, plastic plants, decorations and rocks. Rinse everything thoroughly several times with clean water.
Install the filtration system. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully since models vary in their installation.
Wash the substrate thoroughly before you put it in the tank. Figure on 1 lb. of gravel per gallon the tank holds.
Put the plants in, anchoring the bottoms in the substrate.
Fill a large bucket with clean, dechlorinated water.
Using a hydrometer (a device used to read how much salt is dissolved in the water), add salt. Your goal is a specific gravity between 1.020 and 1.023.
Fill your tank with the saltwater, leaving about an inch at the top.
Start the filter system.
Add the heater and thermometer. Most marine fish do best between 75 and 80 degrees.
Let everything run for at least 72 hours and get the temperature settings right and the water moving.
Cycle the aquarium. A just-set-up fish tank lacks the bacteria that it needs to form a steady biological cycle.
Add your fish when the chemical levels are all okay and the tank temperature is within suggested limits.
Buy a powerhead. In saltwater aquariums, water movement is an absolute must. Be careful not to get one so big that it causes a whirlpool effect.
Get a protein skimmer, which is a necessity for marine tanks. This removes organic debris from the water before it has time to convert to nitrates.
Keep in mind that you'll also need an external water pump and possibly an air pump for your skimmer.