How to Breed Head & Tail Tetras

The head and tail light tetra, also known as a beacon tetra, is distinguishable by pinkish spots just behind the eyes and on the base of the tail. These are schooling fish that prefer groups of six or more. Head and tail light tetras get along very well with each other and most other peaceful fish. They adapt well to almost any water condition. They are egg layers and have been successfully bred in captivity.

Things You'll Need

  • 20-gallon tank (minimum)
  • 10-gallon hatchery tank
  • Live aquarium plants
  • Tank ornaments
  • Black plastic bags
  • Tape
  • Sponge filter
  • 2 Aquarium thermometers
  • 2 Aquarium heaters
  • Java moss
  • Baby brine shrimp
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Instructions

    • 1

      Set up the main tank to make your fish feel the most comfortable. Tetras prefer plenty of live plants, such as foxtails. They also require many hiding places. Ornamental enhancements, such as a mixture of flat rocks and driftwood, also are recommended. Place a floating aquarium thermometer in the water and let it float freely for two hours before taking the temperature, as it may fluctuate. An ideal temperature is between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Adjust the tank heater if necessary.

    • 2

      Prepare the hatchery tank. Using the black bags and tape, cover the back and side panels of the tank to allow only minimal light. Insert a sponge filter and set it to low flow. Place the second floating thermometer in the water and take a reading after two hours. Adjust the secondary heater if necessary to keep the water temperature at 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The elevated temperature will encourage spawning and help incubate the eggs. Add a generous number of foxtails to the tank for the upcoming fry.

    • 3

      Look for fattened bellies on your adult fish. This is an indication that that fish is a female who is ready for spawn. Move her and a male to the hatchery tank. Watch for the spawning "dance" in the early morning hours. The male's color will become more pronounced. He will begin to swim around the female and make shaking motions. He will then get her to follow him to a place he has chosen. They will align side by side and shake. She will release eggs while he releases sperm. Sometimes they will fall limp to the bottom of the tank and repeat the "dance" until all eggs have been released and fertilized. This process may take a couple of hours.

    • 4

      Immediately remove the adults back to the main tank to prevent the eggs from being eaten. The eggs will hatch in 24 hours and will survive on their egg sacs. Leave the hatchery tank in the dark for five days. The fry should be free swimming within five to six days. Remove the black plastic from the tank. Add a ball of java moss to the tank for the fry to feed on. After Day Two of free-swimming fry, introduce baby brine shrimp to them, feeding them every four to six hours. Start changing 25 percent of the tank water every day. Twenty days after hatching, the fry can eat flake food.

    • 5

      Move the babies back to the adult tank in two to three months, or when they are no longer bite size for the adults.