Things You'll Need
- Pond water test kit
- Water conditioner (optional)
- De-chlorinator tablets
- PH buffering solution
- Appropriate fish disease medicines
Instructions
All or Many of the Fish Have Symptoms
Test your pond water with the test kit per package directions. Test for high levels of ammonia, nitrite and water pH in your pond, which can all harm and even kill your fish.
Replace 20 to 40 percent of the total pond water volume every day, if you find ammonia or nitrite in the pond water. When you̵7;re adding water to the pond, spray it onto the pond̵7;s surface to dilute any chlorine and add a de-chlorinator tablet.
Stop feeding the fish while replacing the water in the pond in increments, until you̵7;ve replaced water equal to the total pond volume.
Adjust the pH as necessary as indicated from the pond test kit. Add a commercially-made pH buffering agent designed for fish ponds or aquariums. Follow the directions on the label exactly to achieve the optimal pH level for the type of fish in your pond, usually around 7.0 to 7.5.
One or Few of the Fish Have Symptoms
Net the symptomatic fish and inspect the fish for any injuries, damage or visible symptoms. Look for ulcers, parasites or abnormal spots or blotches on the fish.
Remove the symptomatic fish from the pond and isolate it in an aquarium tank.
Diagnose the exact illness with the aid of a veterinarian. Look for diseased or rotting fins and tail tissues (Finrot), white blotches (fungal disease), raised white spots and lesions on the fish̵7;s body or gills (Ich or White Spot), wound-like ulcers on the sides of the fish (ulcers) or tiny worms feeding on or attached to the fish̵7;s body (parasites).
Purchase the appropriate treatment from your veterinarian or a fish retailer. Dispense the medication into your pond, following the instructions on the label exactly. You must know your pond̵7;s water volume in order to dispense any medications at the proper dosage rates.