Things You'll Need
- Compound miter saw
- Circular saw
- Jigsaw
- Wood chisel
- Tri-square
- 2½-inch wood screws
- 1-inch wood screws
- 3d hinges
- 2 pulls for the doors
- 3d finishing nails
- 4 hinges
- 2 door pulls
- 1 4x8 sheet of oak plywood ¼ inch thick
- 1 8-foot-long corner molding stick
- 1 49x19½-inch plywood
- 1 10-foot-long 4x4
- 2 10-foot-long 2x4
- 2 8-foot-long 1x4
- 6 8-foot-long 1x3
- 3 6-foot-long 1x2
- Wood stain
- Polyurethane
- Metal T-brackets
- Wood putty
Instructions
Cut the 10-foot 4x4 into 30-inch-long pieces. There will be four of them. These are the legs that carry the load for the stand. Set the blade on the circular saw to 1½ inches deep and cut a notch 3½ inches long and 1½ inches deep on two sides of each leg. They will have to be finished with a wood chisel because the circular saw will not get in deep enough to get the cuts precise.
Cut the 2x4s into the following pieces: Four 16-inch pieces and four 49-inch pieces. These are for the top frame and the bottom frame. Make sure you get the frames square and screw them together with the 2½-inch wood screws.
Set the frame into the notches on the legs and secure with wood screws. Cut two 16-inch 2x4s and two 23-inch 2x4s. These are used for braces since the aquarium will be heavy when filled. Attach the 16-inch 2x4s to the bottom frame with screws every 9.8 inches.
Use a tape measure to mark the center of the front and back of the frame. Screw the metal T brackets to the frame and the brace where you marked the center. Fasten the frame rails to the frame with angled wood screws.
Cut a piece of plywood 49 inches by 19 inches for the bottom of the stand, making sure to cut out the notches for the floor braces. When it fits inside, screw it to the bottom frame with wood screws.
Using the miter saw and a 1x4, cut pieces for the top and bottom trim to cover the 2x4 frames that were put together when you started. These are cut the same length with 45 degree angles cut on the ends to allow them to fit together perfectly. Nail these pieces to the frame using finishing nails.
Cut a piece of the ¼-inch plywood the same length as the end of the frame and attach this with finishing nails. Do the same for the other end. Cover the corners with pieces of the corner molding cut to fit. This is attached using finishing nails. Cut three more pieces for the center brace and corner posts. Attach these with finishing nails.
Make the doors now. Cut eight 22¾-inch 1x3s for each door. For two doors you will cut 16. Round the edges of the 1x3s using a router. Use a round over bit set to a shallow depth on your router to round the 1x3s. Cut four 1x2s 18 inches long. Lay eight pieces for each door out on something flat like a table. Keep the edges even and attach one of the 18-inch 1x2s six inches from the top and and six inches from the bottom of the boards using a screw for each board. Place a cross brace diagonally between the top and bottom braces and attach with six screws evenly.
Center flush-mount hinges four inches from the top and bottom frame rails. Mark around the hinges with a marker. Use a wood chisel and cut out the area for the hinges on the corner posts. Cut these ¼ inch in so the edge of the door is flush with the front of the cabinet.
Attach the hinges. Put the doors in place making sure they are where you need them so they will close perfectly. Attach the hinges to the doors. Fill holes from finishing nails with wood putty. The aquarium stand is finished unless you want to stain it. Attach door knobs or pulls.