Things You'll Need
- Aquarium
- Aquarium stand (optional)
- Sand
- Gravel
- Rocks
- Hollow logs
- Plants, live or artificial
- Water thermometer
- Heater
- Filter
- Pure ammonia
- Water testing kit
- Catfish
- Catfish food
- Buckets
- Siphon hose
- Magnetic algae scraper
Instructions
Determining Tank Requirements
Research the catfish that you wish to raise, as some species will be incompatible with other fish -- as a rule of thumb, catfish with downturned mouths are scavengers and can usually be kept with other non-predatory fish, while catfish with horizontal mouths will feed on smaller fish and must be kept alone or with other fish of similar size.
Determine the typical adult size of all the fish that you wish to keep in an aquarium. Use that value to calculate the tank size that you will need -- the absolute minimum capacity of a tank should be 1 gallon of water for every inch of fish with the ideal capacity being 3 gallons for every inch of fish.
Calculate the water-filled weight of the aquarium by using the volume and weight calculator located in the Resources section -- even a small aquarium can weigh over 100 pounds, and larger aquariums can weigh over 1,000 pounds. Ensure that you have a location in your home that can support that weight before purchasing the aquarium.
Obtain the aquarium -- and, if the aquarium weighs more than 100 pounds, an aquarium stand that can bear the weight. Place the aquarium in a level location that is not exposed to drafts, direct sunlight or the swinging range of a door.
Obtain sand and rounded gravel substrates for the aquarium -- 1 lb. of substrate for every gallon of water.
Setting Up a Catfish Aquarium
Rinse the aquarium with cool water and then fill it three-quarters high. Allow the water to stand for one to two days to allow any chlorine to dissipate.
Rinse the sand substrate with cool water and strain the gravel through a colander to remove small loose particles. Pour the substrate into the aquarium and spread it evenly over the tank bottom. Place rocks and hollow sinking logs to provide shelter. Plant the tank with live or artificial plants -- make sure that any live plants are nontoxic to the catfish species that you intend to raise.
Set up a water thermometer and heater in the aquarium for temperature regulation. Maintain a water temperature between 70 and 80 degrees F -- most catfish can tolerate significantly lower temperatures and slightly higher temperatures, but this range is the ideal for most species. Raise the temperature with the heater if necessary. Lower the temperature by placing ice in a sealing plastic bag and floating it in the tank until the ice has completely melted -- never pour ice or cold water directly into an inhabited tank.
Set up a strong filter that is sufficiently powerful for the tank size -- use a bio-filter cartridge, such as a sponge medium or bio-balls.
Raise the water level to the highest level possible that allows the filter's output to create a splash -- this agitation of the surface aerates the tank water.
Cycle the tank by adding five drops of pure ammonia for every 10 gallons of water in the tank each day. Use a water testing kit to test the water daily for nitrites. Reduce the ammonia dosage to three drops per 10 gallons when nitrite levels are detectable by the testing kit. Test the water daily for ammonia and nitrite until the levels are no longer detectable. Allow the tank to sit for another 24 hours before proceeding.
Obtain the desired catfish, making sure that predatory catfish are either kept alone or only with tank mates of similar size. Float their transport bags in the water for 15 minutes to allow the water temperature to equalize before releasing them into the tank water.
General Catfish Care
Feed predatory catfish with live foods such as bloodworms, shrimp and tubifex, which are small enough to be consumed. Chop up frozen foods if they are too large to be easily consumed.
Feed herbivore catfish with sinking catfish pellets and vegetables such as peas and lettuce. Provide edible aquatic plants in larger tanks.
Feed scavenger and omnivore catfish with sinking catfish pellets, fish flakes and fish granules.
Feed all catfish in the early evening, as most species are primarily nocturnal. Feed predatory catfish as much as they can eat in five minutes. Feed herbivores and scavengers as much as they can eat in 30 minutes. Remove any remaining food after these time periods -- with the exception of still-living live foods -- to avoid polluting the tank.
Water Changes
Store the equivalent of 20 percent of the tank's water capacity in open containers such as buckets one or two days before conducting a water change -- this allows trapped chlorine to dissipate. Run the tap water for at least five minutes before filling the containers to reduce the level of impurities.
Use a siphon hose to remove 20 percent of the tank water. Use the siphon hose to vacuum the sand and gravel substrate. Remove excess algae from the tank with a magnetic algae scraper -- leave at least one side of the tank untreated if you have an algae-consuming catfish such as a pleco.
Refill the tank with the prepared water from Step 1. Pour it in slowly enough to avoid disturbing the fish and substrate.
Repeat water changes every two weeks. Test the tank water regularly between water changes -- if ammonia or nitrite levels become detectable, increase subsequent water changes by an additional 5 percent each time until they are no longer detected.