Cures for Saltwater Ick

Ick, also known as ich, is an infection of cryptocaryon or oodinium parasites affecting saltwater and freshwater fish. It is difficult to cure ick because the parasites re-infect host fish and other tank mates rapidly when microscopic spores burst out of cysts on the infected fish's body, infesting the aquarium water. Isolate infected specimens in a quarantine tank as soon as you suspect ick, and start treatment immediately. Heat and saline adjustment or a commercial chemical treatment can cure ick in its early stages.

  1. Diagnosing Saltwater Ick

    • Ick spores are invisible to the naked eye, so you may not be aware a new fish from a pet store is infected until small white cysts resembling grains of salt appear on the infected fish's body and fins. Ick is cured most successfully before the cyst stage, so an early diagnosis is essential. Before the white spots appear, fish appear sluggish and rub themselves against gravel and rough objects in the tank. Rule out other infections such as marine slime disease or velvet using an online fish diagnosis chart before starting a treatment regimen.

    Non-Chemical Treatments

    • Reduced salinity and increased heat are effective treatments for ick in a saltwater aquarium. Lower the salinity in your quarantine tank until the hydrometer reads 1.015, and boost the temperature to at least 80 degrees to disrupt the ick parasite's life cycle. Temporarily reduced salt levels have little long-term effect on marine fish, however, you should slowly return salt levels to 1.024 over three or four days to avoid causing further stress to your fish.

    Chemical-Based Treatments

    • Commercial ick treatments contain formalin, quinine, methanidizole or malachite green, and effectiveness varies depending on the extent and stage of parasitic infection. Some aquarists use commercial treatments successfully and others achieve similarly effective results using natural methods. A copper solution is an effective cure for persistent saltwater ick, but it is extremely toxic to invertebrates, anemones, crabs and shrimps. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for the safe administration of a copper treatment and only use it in a quarantine tank.

    Prevention

    • Quarantine new fish for two weeks before introducing them to an established community tank to prevent ick entering your aquarium. All fish naturally harbor disease organisms that pose no threat when the fish is healthy, but if a fish's immune system is compromised through poor water quality, excessive handling or stress, the fish may succumb to infection. Keep new specimens in a separate tank until you are sure they do not pose a health threat to your other fish.