Things You'll Need
- Large fish tank (30 to 50 gallons minimum)
- Sump filter
- Live rock
- Protein skimmer
- Lighting system
- Food (optional, depending species)
Instructions
Design your setup. You have several important questions to ask yourself: is this going to be a tank emphasizing fish or coral? Is this tank for propagating coral or for display? What species of coral are you interested in? Research the specific needs of the coral(s) you select.
Assemble your tank's filters, heaters and pumps. Most aquarists use a combination of live rock and a sump filter for their filtration. Sump filters are largely DIY, and many different designs can be found on the internet. A protein skimmer is also recommended.
Assemble your lighting. Lighting is critical to the success of your corals. There are many options, including metal halides, florescent and the new LED arrays. Each has pros and cons. For example, metal halide bulbs produce powerful light, but may become too hot. Florescent lights are cooler, but have a shorter lifespan.
Introduce your coral at the deepest part of your tank. Inch the coral towards its final location in the aquarium over a month or so. You can tell when a coral is comfortable and happy when it assumes its full colors and fully expands itself.
Reduce your photoperiod (the length of time the lights are on) by 25 percent for the first week. Add one hour of light a day for a week. Also, add screening over any powerful lights, like metal halides. This helps the coral adapt to your tanks lighting.
Feed any corals that require it. Typically, non-photosynthetic corals (corals that eat instead of living off light) are actually harder to keep alive. Their food varies greatly depending on the species, but could include anything from plankton (available online) to seafood from the grocery store.
Keep up on maintenance; corals are very sensitive to biological waste and they need additives like calcium and iodine to grow and thrive.