How to Make a Goat Milking Stand

Cut all wood with skill saw. Rule of thumb, measure twice, cut once. Use the square for straight cuts.
Cut two of the 2-by-4s into two 36-inch lengths and one 24-inch length.
Cut two of the 2-by-4s into one 54-inch length, one 18-inch length, and one 24-inch length.
Cut one 2-by-4 into one 21-inch length.
Cut one 1-by-6 into two 24-inch lengths and two 12-inch lengths.
Snap a chalk line at 12 inches on the plywood, cut off. Reserve for feeder.
With the miter saw, cut the 2 inch by 2 inch by 8 foot into one 18-inch length; then alternating 12 inches, 9 inches, 12 inches, etc., in order to make all cuts out of one piece, cut three 12-inch pieces, with 45-degree angles at each end, and three 9-inch pieces, with 45-degree angles, also at each end.

Using the electric drill, drill the holes for the stanchion̵1;the uprights that move in order to secure the goat during the milking process.
Use the 3/4-inch drill bit.
Drill two holes, each 8 3/4 inches from each end of one of the 24-inch 2-by-4s.
Drill two holes in another 24-inch 2-by-4, each 6 1/4 inch from each end of the board.
Using the 21-inch 2-by-4, drill two holes, each 5 5/8 inches from each end of the board.
Use the 3/8-inch drill bit.
Using a scrap 2 inch by 2 inch piece, drill, dead center, a hole, 3/4-inch deep.

Assemble the milking stand.
Frame:
Find the two un-drilled, 36-inch 2-by-4s, the un-drilled, 24-inch 2-by-4, and the drilled, 21-inch 2-by-4. The 24-inch piece spans the 36-inch pieces and the 21-inch piece fits between these side rails. Use the 3-inch nails to connect the rectangle. Use the 3-inch nails to connect the rear legs, the two 18-inch 2-by-4s, to the inside, rear of the rectangle, situating them so they are flush to the top of the frame. Then, using the 18-inch 2-by-4 piece, brace the rear legs by nailing this piece, using the 3-inch nails, between the two. Now, take the two 3/4-inch by 6-inch dowels and glue them into the front, 21-inch 2-by-4 board.
Take the two 54-inch 2-by-4s, measure and mark at 14 1/2 inches, then line the marks up where the bottom of the frame ends and nail them to the frame using the 3-inch nails.
Stanchion:
Position two drilled, 36-inch 2-by-4s over the 3/4-inch dowels, coat the dowels with glue; position the 24-inch 2-by-4 crosspiece over the dowels then nail it to the 54-inch legs with the 3-inch nails.
Mark each 54-inch leg 5 1/2 inches from the top; span with one drilled, 24-inch 2-by-4 and use the 3-inch nails to secure it.
To finish the stanchion, use the holes in the crosspiece as a guide and adjust the bars so they line up with the holes and drill a 3/8-inch hole through each 36-inch 2-by-4 to match the openings in the crosspiece. Position the two 3/8-inch by 6-inch dowels through the new holes in the bars and into the first crosspiece, then slide the final drilled, 24-inch 2-by-4 onto the dowels and nail it to the 54-inch 2-by-4 legs using the 3-inch nails. Remove the dowels, coat one end of each with glue and attach to the 2-by-2 pieces drilled earlier. This creates grips to remove the dowels so the goat̵7;s head will fit easily in the stanchion.
Braces:
Finishing the goat milking stand requires installing, with 2 1/4-inch nails, the angled braces on the lower part of the frame, setting the floor, using the roofing nails, and adding the two upper leg braces to the front of the stand, nailing them in place with the 2 1/4-inch nails.

Make a feeder to attach to the stand, which will keep the goat busy during the milking process.
Build a simple rectangle using the finish nails and the two 24-inch 1-by-6s and the two 12-inch 1-by-6s. Then, starting about 1/2 inch in, on the short side of the box, near the bottom, tack three or four evenly spaced finish nails, so they protrude into the box. Using the chalk line, snap a line 2 inches from the long end of the reserved piece of plywood, cut it off using the skill saw and set it in the frame. This makes for a removable, cleanable feeder base.