Things You'll Need
- Aquarium
- 60-watt light bulb
- Fake rocks and plants
- Bark or reptile sand
- Thermometer
- Crickets and live insects
- Shallow water bowl
- Spray bottle
Instructions
Housing, Feeding and Breeding
Purchase a tank for the gecko at a pet supply store that specializes in reptiles. The size of the tank depends on how many geckos it will house, and how large they are. "You can comfortably house up to three average-sized geckos in a tank around the size of 32 inches by 15 inches by 15 inches," the Gecko Care website advises.
The most important factor in gecko housing is that the temperature, humidity and light are in the correct amounts. The gecko house should have a thermometer inside to continually monitor the temperature. Daytime temperatures should be around 88 degrees Fahrenheit, with nighttime temperatures around 75 degrees Fahrenheit. A 60 watt bulb can be used to warm the cage.
Because gecko's like to hide, their cages should include fake rocks and plants to enable them to hide and get away. A shallow water bowl should be in the cage and fresh water should be added a couple times per day.
If housing young gecko's you can use bark for the bottom of the cage. For older gecko's you can use a specialized reptile sand.
Purchase some live crickets, fruit flies and mealworms at a local pet store to feed your gecko. Geckos are predators that prefer to catch and eat live food. When purchasing the crickets, make sure they are not too large for the gecko to eat. "A good rule of thumb is to not purchase crickets that are larger than your gecko's head," according to the Gecko Care website. The amount of crickets to feed depends on the gecko's size and age.
Mealworms should be fed only sporadically as a treat, and not for the gecko's main diet.
Young geckos enjoy eating fruit flies.
When the gecko is mature, it can be fed a one-day old mouse or pinkie to ensure it is getting adequate nutrition.
Supplements can aid your gecko's health, and they are sold at most pet stores. Always read the labels and use moderation when giving these products to your gecko.
Sex your geckos before attempting to breed them. Sexing a gecko younger than 6 months can be difficult, but there are some traits you can look for that will help you determine whether your gecko is male or female.
Male geckos have femoral pores on the undersides of their thighs, and they have more noticeable V-shaped preanal pores, as shown in photos on the Reptic Zone website (see Resources section). Males also have two hemipenal bulges near the base of their tail. Female geckos do not display those traits.
Once the male and female gecko have bred, the female's belly will start to swell. A female can lay several clutches of two eggs per year. Females bury and hide their eggs.
Set up a separate aquarium for the gecko eggs to be transferred to once they have been laid. Gecko eggs are very fragile, and moving them to their own aquarium will ensure that the eggs won't be broken. Place the eggs in an incubating medium and cover them. The temperature of the incubating aquarium should be 85 degrees Fahrenheit, with humidity at 75 percent.
The eggs should be checked frequently, and any eggs showing signs of mold or disease should be removed. If eggs have white spots and indentions, that means the humidity of the cage is too low and needs to be increased.
Gecko eggs generally hatch from 6 to 12 weeks.
If possible it is best to house the young geckos separately as they mature, especially if there are dominant geckos in the cage. If they are housed together, be sure there are enough rocks and plants for the geckos to hide among.