Things You'll Need
- Aquarium
- Paper towels
- Heat lamp
- UVB light fixture
- Calcium supplement
- Crickets
Instructions
Green geckos vary in size. Keep species that only grow to be a few inches long in a 10-gallon or larger aquarium. Glass aquariums work best because they hold in humidity. Geckos love to climb, so height is more important than width in cage design. Some suggest standing glass aquariums on their side to make the enclosure taller; his modification makes the enclosure easier to tip over and may be dangerous for the lizard, however.
There are a number of substrates sold commercially for lizards but the fact that a manufacturer recommends a substrate for geckos does not necessarily make that substrate ideal. Avoid finely ground substrates as they may be ingested. Line the tank with paper towels, peat moss, or cypress mulch as they are not likely to be ingested by the gecko and they are fairly easy to clean.
Many captive reptiles, including the green gecko, will require UVB lighting in the form of specially made UVB bulbs and fixtures. These fixtures can be quite expensive but this is not an area to skimp. Cheaper bulbs and fixtures may not provide enough ultraviolet rays. Provide UVB lighting for 12 hours every day.
This species of gecko thrives at temperatures of 80 degrees to 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Check the temperature often with a reliable thermometer. Drop temperatures slightly (by five to 10 degrees) at night to mimic a natural environment.
Green geckos can be fed a variety of insects, including crickets, small mealworms and small wax worms. Wax worms are mostly fat and should not be the staple of a gecko's diet. Use crickets as the main staple of the diet. Captive geckos require calcium supplements. These can be purchased in powder form at most pet stores. Calcium powder can either be left in the enclosure in a shallow dish or it can be dusted over insects just before feeding. Always provide clean, fresh water in a shallow dish.