Things You'll Need
- Healthy adult blood pythons
- Small reptile cages
- Python diet
- Incubator
Instructions
Feed your adult pythons at an increased rate in the fall, just before the breeding season begins. Female pythons especially will require less time in between meals. Normal feeding schedules are approximately two weeks apart, so increase that to feeding once a week.
Stop feeding the pythons once the breeding season begins. If they don't seem to be showing mating habits, try misting them with water and dropping the ambient temperature of the cage to the mid-70s at night.
Bring the male snake over to the cage of the female that you intend to breed it with. If your snakes already occupy the same cage, allow them to stay. Keep a watch on the pair to make sure breeding occurs and ensure they are getting along. Individual snake's readiness to mate will differ during the breeding season; certain pairs you pick out just might not work together.
Begin feeding the snakes again once the clutches are laid. The females will lay eggs 40 to 50 days after mating, in the spring most likely.
Carefully remove and place all the eggs in an incubator. Keep the temperature between 88 and 90 degrees. They will hatch in about 60 days.
Feed the babies within several weeks of hatching. Baby rats and small mice are appropriate for hatchlings. Some hatchlings will refuse to eat. One way to get past this is by placing it and its food in a small dark container. This will help it feel secure. Also, a few new blood pythons will only eat live rodents, but this isn't recommended unless it is the only way they will eat.
Place baby blood pythons in cages similar to their parents' but much smaller. Baby blood pythons become nervous in open cages without cover.
Determine and label the sex of each hatched python if you plan on selling them or breeding them.