Techniques in the Keeping & Care of Snakes in Captivity

Many people fear snakes, while others find them interesting and want them for pets. Certain kinds of snakes, often non-native snakes that are poisonous or constrictors, require special permits in many communities, so you should investigate that with local breeders or pet stores that sell snakes or your state̵7;s Department of Parks and Wildlife. You should also know about the care and feeding of your snake before you purchase it.

  1. Feeding Your Snake

    • Each species of snake has a favorite diet, so check out your snake̵7;s dietary requirements with your breeder, veterinarian or herpetologist. All snakes eat meat and most can learn to eat a prekilled diet you can keep frozen until your snake needs to eat. Thaw mice thoroughly at room temperature and place them in the cage with your snake. With water snakes, provide live fish, amphibians and worms. Never feed a snake prey with a diameter larger than the snake. Don̵7;t handle the snake for two days after feeding it to allow it to digest the prey. Remember that your snake may only want food once a week or less often, so don̵7;t panic if it doesn̵7;t want to eat as soon as you put the food in the habitat.

    The Habitat

    • Snakes are cold-blooded and need constant temperature and humidity levels in the habitat. A large aquarium with a tightly fitting lid, warming lamp and two bowls of water promote healthy temperature and humidity. Place newspaper or butcher paper on the cage bottom unless your snake burrows. Set the lamp on one side of the environment and put a dish of water near the light to keep the environment humid. Place the other bowl on the opposite side of the tank for your snake to drink. Place hiding places for your snake on both ends of the and add PVC pipe or plastic logs for climbing snakes. Place a thermometer and hygrometer where you can monitor the temperature and humidity.

    Molting

    • Snakes shed their skin when it̵7;s too small and may shed as often as every other month. If the humidity is too low, the skin adheres to the snake and makes it difficult to shed. Your snake̵7;s eyes will turn a milky blue and the hide will look rough and gray before he sheds it. The skin sloughs off within a few days after the snake̵7;s eyes return to their normal color. Don̵7;t handle your snake before the shed or for a day or so after because the skin is tender.

    Sick Care

    • If your snake seems ill, find a veterinarian that treats snakes. Mites and other parasites can attack your snake if the cage isn̵7;t kept clean. Live prey can attack the snake. If the snake gets too hot it can dehydrate or burn rather than move. Get your snake good care rather than trying to treat it yourself.